Restaurant "The junction": Gloria and Elijah, a curious experience | Items chefs

The majority of restaurant critics know what a good restaurant and establish what is not. The criteria are clear: good food, creativity, good service, a room decorated with good taste, cleanliness, order, harmony ... but sometimes that does not serve the usual parameters. If I were to rate the restaurant "El Empalme," would have to say what once was said of Lola Flores in United States: "This is not the best singer or the best dancing, but they can not lose."

Just recently in a televised debate I said that haute cuisine is an experience similar to that of contemplating a work of art, and what I would say if I asked you to be extraordinary to see a Picasso in a garage?. In the middle Three roads in the province of Zamora is located in a building on one floor bastande ramshackle, one of the best Spanish restaurants where preparations are made of mushrooms. Its owners, marriage composed of Cortés Gloria and Elijah Martin, left "The Zaguán in San Sebastian to mount" The Connection ": a small dining room, a large bar in the bar where there are also tables and three people: marriage and his daughter, who helps them ... The waiting list is months.

Price: € 45 per person tasting menu closed, but different every day, (they send the mushrooms). Some of the dishes: mushroom stew, with cecina trumpets of death, pularda with mushrooms, octopus with mushrooms, boletus to plate , foie ... acidulated with mushrooms, sweet and intense, with a gelatinous texture resistant ... a whole other universe micológico indescribable on the plate.

They say that Gloria, owner and chef of the restaurant next to Elias "The Junction" is a very bad mood, even on one occasion going to the president of the Brotherhood of the Good Table, Imelda Moreno, the president of the Academy of Gastronomy of Zamora Irene Silva, the first question that was bothering her, and noticed that the wrong question. On our visit, however, was charming, friendly and smiling, I am happy because I can handle bad ironed tablecloths, who has not completed or change the service to be rude, but it is impossible to dislike me lunch.

The harshness of the place of local service and contrasts powerfully in "The Connection" with the creative subtlety of its owner, with the ability to "see" where Gloria NASCAR sensitivity cuisine, a subtlety that comes from a spirit " unusual "for" unique, "although it may be unwise, especially in the forms.

If Gloria and Elias resist the qualifications, I will not qualify them, if I had to do the note could not be high, just tell them to see a Picasso in a garage can be a great experience, I would prefer to see a Dali in the Prado Museum, but if you could not choose ... I would deny that an adequate site, with an appropriate service.